400 cubic inch Pontiac buildup: The Procrastination Pontiac Part 1

Here it is,17 years in the making, I'm finally building the 400 for my 1973 Pontiac Ventura. I have no real viable excuse for why it's taken 17 years to get to this point but whatever. The engine in question is a 1973 400 pontiac 2 bolt main block,It had well over 100,000 miles on it when it was torn down. The fact that it had so miles is a good thing,It means the block has been through thousands of heating and cooling cycles and is less susceptible to core shift,therefore a great rebuild candidate.

At the machine shop the engine block went through a battery of procedures that will hopefully make a strong running engine.After the block was thoroughly cleaned The cylinders were bored 0.030 over,The deck has been milled 0.010. The main bolts have been replaced with ARP main studs for increased strength the main bores were also align honed.The machine shop also installed cam bearings.

First thing I did was tape off the machined surfaces and paint the block to prevent flash rust.
I then installed brass freeze plugs, Brass freeze plugs are a good investment because they won't rust like the steel ones. In the long run it's cheap insurance. I like to paint the block then install the freeze plugs because I think it makes for a more custom appearance. It's also perfectly acceptable to fog them engine color

This is a biggie! Most machine shops remove the passenger side oil galley plug when they clean the block. If it isn't reinstalled the engine will have little or no oil pressure.
  Stay tuned for part 2 when we assemble the bottom end

1970 Dodge Challenger update: 2011 edition

   Of all the junk cars I've owned It's my 1970 Dodge Challenger that gets the most comments/questions. Unquestionably it's the nicest,fastest,most valuable vehicle I've ever owned. With the prices of Musclecar era mopars skyrocketing in recent years It's safe to say I'll probably never sell it. With that being said I'm as they say in Vegas "all in" when it comes to the challenger.
Several weeks ago I awoke my prized dodge from it's winter slumber. I changed the spark plugs and the oil. I did some experimenting with the plugs by trying a set in a colder heat range. With the oil I used Valvoline VR-1 racing oil, It has a high level of ZDDP, which is a critical ingredient thats lacking in most oil today,and crucial for any older engine utilizing a flat tappet camshaft.
 I screwed up big by not putting any stabil in the gas which made a full tank of new gas pretty much useless. It still ran decent with the bad gas, I eventually got it running and idling rather well. After some tuning I got it to idle at 900 rpm and pull about 9inches of vacuum, It still has a choppy idle due to the camshaft grind having a narrow 108 degree LSA (lobe separation angle) Mopar Performance has since released a cam with identical specs but on a the wider 110 degree LSA which would have a nicer idle. I thought the clutch was burnt up but was simply in need of adjustment and I think it's working fine. I'm still working towards getting some seat time in the challenger at a dragstrip soon,time and money permitting. For dragstrip action I need to install longer wheel studs and get the slicks mounted. After that my only goal is to drive it often and violently. I really want to put some serious miles on the car to work out whatever bugs it still has. It still has a laundry list of little things that need to be addressed. I need to get the front turn signals working,the grease boots on the front suspension are dry rotted from years of sitting and need to be replaced,the steering box leaks a little,the dome light doesn't work, I replaced the leaf springs last year but I still should replace the shocks to call it good. So it's pretty much normal stuff for any vintage mopar owner.

pros and cons of a winter beater

 Old man winter definitely wasn't a car guy. How else could you explain the brutal suffering of automobiles at the hands of old man winter? If the cars can survive the icey roads and the sub-zero engine killing cold starts, Theres always the ever present road salt which will surely turn your pride and joy into a rusted hulk in a few years time. As much as I would like to drive my Challenger year around, The latitude I live at makes that nearly impossible. So to preserve one of the few nice cars I own I employ the use of "winter beaters" for those unfamiliar with the concept,It's simple: park your nice car and buy something cheap for old man winter to abuse. I have three criteria for a winter beater:(1) It needs to have a functional heater (2) It needs to be somewhat reliable (3) It needs to be cheap. Sometimes you can ignore 1 and 2 if 3 is a killer deal,But that often backfires when the repair bills start racking up. I typically don't pay more than $1000 for a winter beater, The Cash for clunkers program a few years back dried up supplies considerably,but deals are still out there. The downside to purchasing a winter beater is that it's a cheap car and you get what you pay for. If you're hung up on luxuries like functioning gauges,windows that roll down and a radio that gets more than three stations, You better keep driving your shiny new car. Owners of modern automobiles are so coddled these days, They seem lost without their myriad of cupholders,satellite radio,and heated seats. The people who drive beaters are in some ways automotive masochists,We love telling stories of our vehicular hardships (my favorite story is driving my 73 Fury in a rainstorm with no wipers and sketchy brakes)

I've often resorted to desperate measures to keep junk on the road. When the passenger door on my 95 blazer broke, I simply welded it shut General Lee style. Duct tape and zip ties are a beaters best friend. My current beater is a 1995 Olds cutlass,purchased for $600 from my dad (family discount) It's actually the nicest beater I've ever owned, It's even got a functional cassette player,I've never had it so good. I think I'm ready for a few more months of winter.........maybe not.